Over in the shadow of Union Station, chef Daniele Catalani and his team at Toscana Café (601 Second St. NE, 202-525-2693) bake ciabatta every morning, using a recipe that mixes in a healthy amount of flavor-enhancing biga into the dough. The golden blocks are pulled from the deck oven hot, fresh, and ready for the 14 sandwiches on Catalani’s menu.
Catalani’s crusty loaves are so flavorful they practically steal the show from the top-billed ingredients, particularly the Italiano’s spicy fennel pork sausage, which is a fine link, save for the casings that were (in my case) crisped into a rubbery mass better suited for teething infants. Once, the ciabatta was even MIA on my Napolitano meatball sandwich, replaced with an inferior sub roll. It didn’t distract a lick from those rich, melt-in-your mouth meatballs, braised in Catalani’s tomato sauce and shot through with fresh parsley, oregano, and roasted garlic puree. It’s the current gold standard for meatball sandwiches.